Have gathered some nice pictures of tuned bmw m5
How is that?
If you got more cool pics let me know! I can post them here!
Friday, March 7, 2008
Cool WMB m5 Tuning Pictures!
Have gathered some nice pictures of tuned bmw m5
How is that?
If you got more cool pics let me know! I can post them here!
BMW M5 Tuning - Amazing M5
Check out some nice M5, The RED on the rims really looks great
Pics are bmw m5 tuning amazing! Sorry for freaking filthy car. A combination of a SUPER busy schedule last week and rain up until today meant that the car was filthy!
I am going to get it cleaned up tomorrow and hopefully take some more shots!
Pics are bmw m5 tuning amazing! Sorry for freaking filthy car. A combination of a SUPER busy schedule last week and rain up until today meant that the car was filthy!
I am going to get it cleaned up tomorrow and hopefully take some more shots!
Cool isn't it!
BWM M5 Magnaflow Installed.. check it out.
Finally I Magnaflow 14815 cans installed today. From eBay for a pretty good price with free shipping. Installation is not the main part but (cost $250.00) and was done by Meineke and it took 3hrs (thanks to manager, i didn't get to pay much 2.5hrs of labor including parts).
Personally, I didn't want the car to be very loud and wanted only that deep heavy sound (louder than OEM but not as loud as Eisenmann Race/Sport or Supersprint), I acheived the sound I was looking for and I love it! The car is now sounding like a BEAST - the way it should be.
here Check out the Vids of bmw m5 tuning
Personally, I didn't want the car to be very loud and wanted only that deep heavy sound (louder than OEM but not as loud as Eisenmann Race/Sport or Supersprint), I acheived the sound I was looking for and I love it! The car is now sounding like a BEAST - the way it should be.here Check out the Vids of bmw m5 tuning
e39 BMW M5 - Magnaflow 14815 exhaust without resonator
e39 BMW M5 - Magnaflow 14815 exhaust with resonator
e39 BMW M5 - Magnaflow 14815 exhaust with resonator
Traded BMW M5 for 135I can you believe that?
Some kido a while ago showed that he traded in his 05 m5, 65000 miles on it, to this alpine white, with hartge rims...
And the int. trim is going to be Carbon, all over... gear lever, and much more, Check out the pics...
The 135i, is mine too, fun and good litlle car.. BMW m5 Tuningmag had the idea from the Concept TII...
Some pics with carbon parts..
And the int. trim is going to be Carbon, all over... gear lever, and much more, Check out the pics...
The 135i, is mine too, fun and good litlle car.. BMW m5 Tuningmag had the idea from the Concept TII...
Some pics with carbon parts..
How to remove DIY E39M5 Rear Deck
Remove and reinstall the rear deck so you can change your rear suspension:
Background – my car has the fold-down rear seats, rear airbags (SRS) and the rear sunshade. If your car is equipped differently, your experience may differ.
The interior fittings are all very well designed and made. In my car, everything fit well and nothing had to be forced or bent. The job has been described by others as easy but tedious, and I agree, with emphasis on the easy part.
Just to set the stage, I thought I’d describe the logic of the job: What has to be done so you can remove the rear deck to expose the top of the rear shock mounts?
- You have to remove the rear seat base to expose the screws that allow you to remove the rear seat side bolsters
- You have to remove the side bolsters so you can remove both the c-pillar trim and the actual deck itself (BMW M5 Tuning)
- You have to remove everything that actually goes through the deck and stops it from moving: the headrest posts, the child-restraint bolts and the air vents under the rear window so that it will come out
- You have to remove the c-pillar lights to remove the c-pillar trim, which in turn holds the deck in place at the edges
- You have to remove the three nuts in the trunk that hold the sunshade in place
- You have to pull the six drive pin clips that hold the front of the deck in place behind the rear seatbacks. The trim piece has to come off as well.
- Once you have the deck out, you have to remove the two interior speakers to gain access to the top of the shock towers.
A couple of notes – I did the work in an order that made it easiest for me to do, not the order that usually appears in instructions. I wore nitrile gloves to keep the back window clean. When I refer to “up”, “forward”, “down”, and so on, I mean in relation to the car when you’re outside it and looking at it.
bmw m5 tuning says that you have to Start by removing the headrests and their posts. The headrest and the posts are all individual pieces intended to separate. The posts are held in place by spring clips that clip into slots down inside the deck. To remove, pull up on the headrest itself until it comes off the posts. Then pull the posts out one by one. I’ve read descriptions suggesting they are hard to remove, but mine weren’t.
Second, use a small slotted screwdriver to pop the plastic covers off the tops of the child-restraint bolts and remove the bolts and their rubber spacers. The triangular trim pieces just lift out without any drama. You don’t have to actually remove the trim, but the holes make a dandy way to hang onto the deck when the time comes to remove it. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Next, get two small slotted screwdrivers and reach to the back of the deck and pry up the front edge of the vent cover. Each vent has four clips across the front edge and I just pried up with one screwdriver to create a gap, put the second one in and then just edged them along; as I did the clips popped one by one. Once the front edge is released lift it clear of the front edge of the hole then pull it straight forward to release the two longish (about an inch) rearward-facing rectangular pins under the deck at the rear. Don’t pull up, pull forward or you’ll break the pins off. These large pins lock the rear of the deck in place.
The last part of releasing the deck restraints is to open the trunk and remove the three nuts that hold the roller blind down. They’re pretty easy to spot underneath the deck in the spaces between the M-Audio speakers and they just unscrew.
Although it’s “out of order” the next job is to remove the lights from the c-pillar trim. The lights have metal spring clips at the top and plastic hooks at the bottom, so pry down gently at the top and they just tip into your hands and lift right out. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Removing the light exposes two 8mm screw heads. Remove them. For the moment, you’re done – we’ll come back to the c-pillar trim in a little while.
The next job is to remove the rear seat. Your workplace is about to become rather less comfy.
Run the front seats forward to make room, and then reach in and pull up sharply at the front edge of the rear seat once on each side. It will pop off the two spring clips that hold it in place. Pop each side in turn and then just lift the seat bottom out. BEFORE YOU FOLD THE SEAT BACKS FORWARD PUT IN SOME PROTECTION FOR THEM! I put a length of two-by-four in between the two exposed spring clips and laid bubble wrap on it so that the rear seat leather didn’t run into the spring clip. Once you’ve made sure that they won’t be damaged, fold the seat backs forward. You will have to sit on them, so make sure they’re well protected. (bmw m5 tuning)
Next, remove the rear seat side bolsters. Reach down the front of the bolster and feel along the bottom toward the door to locate and remove the 10mm screw the holds the bolster in place. The screw is cross-ways in the car and goes into the inside of the rocker panel (not literally, but you get the idea). Once the screw is out, the seat bolster is held in place by two more clips. Near the top it’s held by a single spring clip similar to the ones that hold the rear seat base down. At the bottom the bolster has a metal tongue that goes downward into a slot. To remove the bolster the rest of the way, pull the top straight away from its mounting face about six inches down from the top to pop the spring clip loose. Once the top is free, lift the bolster straight up to get the tongue out of its slot and it’s out. Remove both sides. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Now that the bolsters are out, you are nearly done.
Now finish taking the c-pillar trim out. Since the screws are already out, the trim is only held in place by two plastic pins at the front and a row of tabs that fit into slots at the rear. The plastic pins stick straight out of the back of the trim piece, and if you break them, they can be replaced. One is visible and reachable at the top near the middle of the light opening and the other is about half-way between the front tip of the light opening and the front tip of the trim piece where it goes forward over the door. Hold the trim near the pins and give a firm tug straight out (90 degrees from the surface). Don’t pull too far! That will pull these pins out of their plastic sockets in the bodywork. Once the pins are free, pull the trim piece forward and tip it inward and it’s out. Remove both sides. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Next, take a pair of diagonal cutters and coax the center pins out of the six pushpins that hold the trim piece over the top of the trunk opening. The trim piece has five tabs that hook underneath the bottom edge and go up inside the trunk. Once the pushpins are out you have to carefully work the panel to release the hooks and get it free. Once the trim panel is off, you’re ready to remove the deck.
Getting the actual deck out isn’t hard, but it does take some heaving. Sit on the back seat with your feet in the trunk, grab the deck through the holes left by the child-restraint trim and then pull it up and towards you. Just keep working it and eventually it will pop out and pretty much land in your lap. Before you go all the way to laying it on the back seat, find the wire for the electric roller blind and unhook it from the right-most hold-down clip it so it doesn’t get stretched or damaged.
If you’re just doing suspension or sound system work then you don’t actually want to take the deck completely out. Roll it forward and lay it upside-down on the back seat. It will be held in place by the seatbelts that still go through it, and you can do all your suspension work with it in this position. The last step before the suspension work begins is to unscrew the two speakers at the left and right sides of the rear shelf. They are held in place with two tapping screws at the front, and they just lift up and pull forward. Unplug and remove them. The top of the rear shock is under the foam blanket in a hollow just behind the rear seatback and just inboard of the outer seat-belt reel. Fold the outside forward corner of the foam blanket back and look underneath – you’ve arrived! (BMW M5 Tuning)
Reinstallation is literally the reverse of removal.
Background – my car has the fold-down rear seats, rear airbags (SRS) and the rear sunshade. If your car is equipped differently, your experience may differ.
The interior fittings are all very well designed and made. In my car, everything fit well and nothing had to be forced or bent. The job has been described by others as easy but tedious, and I agree, with emphasis on the easy part.Just to set the stage, I thought I’d describe the logic of the job: What has to be done so you can remove the rear deck to expose the top of the rear shock mounts?
- You have to remove the rear seat base to expose the screws that allow you to remove the rear seat side bolsters
- You have to remove the side bolsters so you can remove both the c-pillar trim and the actual deck itself (BMW M5 Tuning)
- You have to remove everything that actually goes through the deck and stops it from moving: the headrest posts, the child-restraint bolts and the air vents under the rear window so that it will come out
- You have to remove the c-pillar lights to remove the c-pillar trim, which in turn holds the deck in place at the edges
- You have to remove the three nuts in the trunk that hold the sunshade in place
- You have to pull the six drive pin clips that hold the front of the deck in place behind the rear seatbacks. The trim piece has to come off as well.
- Once you have the deck out, you have to remove the two interior speakers to gain access to the top of the shock towers.
A couple of notes – I did the work in an order that made it easiest for me to do, not the order that usually appears in instructions. I wore nitrile gloves to keep the back window clean. When I refer to “up”, “forward”, “down”, and so on, I mean in relation to the car when you’re outside it and looking at it.bmw m5 tuning says that you have to Start by removing the headrests and their posts. The headrest and the posts are all individual pieces intended to separate. The posts are held in place by spring clips that clip into slots down inside the deck. To remove, pull up on the headrest itself until it comes off the posts. Then pull the posts out one by one. I’ve read descriptions suggesting they are hard to remove, but mine weren’t.
Second, use a small slotted screwdriver to pop the plastic covers off the tops of the child-restraint bolts and remove the bolts and their rubber spacers. The triangular trim pieces just lift out without any drama. You don’t have to actually remove the trim, but the holes make a dandy way to hang onto the deck when the time comes to remove it. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Next, get two small slotted screwdrivers and reach to the back of the deck and pry up the front edge of the vent cover. Each vent has four clips across the front edge and I just pried up with one screwdriver to create a gap, put the second one in and then just edged them along; as I did the clips popped one by one. Once the front edge is released lift it clear of the front edge of the hole then pull it straight forward to release the two longish (about an inch) rearward-facing rectangular pins under the deck at the rear. Don’t pull up, pull forward or you’ll break the pins off. These large pins lock the rear of the deck in place.
The last part of releasing the deck restraints is to open the trunk and remove the three nuts that hold the roller blind down. They’re pretty easy to spot underneath the deck in the spaces between the M-Audio speakers and they just unscrew.
Although it’s “out of order” the next job is to remove the lights from the c-pillar trim. The lights have metal spring clips at the top and plastic hooks at the bottom, so pry down gently at the top and they just tip into your hands and lift right out. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Removing the light exposes two 8mm screw heads. Remove them. For the moment, you’re done – we’ll come back to the c-pillar trim in a little while.
The next job is to remove the rear seat. Your workplace is about to become rather less comfy.Run the front seats forward to make room, and then reach in and pull up sharply at the front edge of the rear seat once on each side. It will pop off the two spring clips that hold it in place. Pop each side in turn and then just lift the seat bottom out. BEFORE YOU FOLD THE SEAT BACKS FORWARD PUT IN SOME PROTECTION FOR THEM! I put a length of two-by-four in between the two exposed spring clips and laid bubble wrap on it so that the rear seat leather didn’t run into the spring clip. Once you’ve made sure that they won’t be damaged, fold the seat backs forward. You will have to sit on them, so make sure they’re well protected. (bmw m5 tuning)
Next, remove the rear seat side bolsters. Reach down the front of the bolster and feel along the bottom toward the door to locate and remove the 10mm screw the holds the bolster in place. The screw is cross-ways in the car and goes into the inside of the rocker panel (not literally, but you get the idea). Once the screw is out, the seat bolster is held in place by two more clips. Near the top it’s held by a single spring clip similar to the ones that hold the rear seat base down. At the bottom the bolster has a metal tongue that goes downward into a slot. To remove the bolster the rest of the way, pull the top straight away from its mounting face about six inches down from the top to pop the spring clip loose. Once the top is free, lift the bolster straight up to get the tongue out of its slot and it’s out. Remove both sides. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Now that the bolsters are out, you are nearly done.
Now finish taking the c-pillar trim out. Since the screws are already out, the trim is only held in place by two plastic pins at the front and a row of tabs that fit into slots at the rear. The plastic pins stick straight out of the back of the trim piece, and if you break them, they can be replaced. One is visible and reachable at the top near the middle of the light opening and the other is about half-way between the front tip of the light opening and the front tip of the trim piece where it goes forward over the door. Hold the trim near the pins and give a firm tug straight out (90 degrees from the surface). Don’t pull too far! That will pull these pins out of their plastic sockets in the bodywork. Once the pins are free, pull the trim piece forward and tip it inward and it’s out. Remove both sides. (BMW M5 Tuning)
Next, take a pair of diagonal cutters and coax the center pins out of the six pushpins that hold the trim piece over the top of the trunk opening. The trim piece has five tabs that hook underneath the bottom edge and go up inside the trunk. Once the pushpins are out you have to carefully work the panel to release the hooks and get it free. Once the trim panel is off, you’re ready to remove the deck.
Getting the actual deck out isn’t hard, but it does take some heaving. Sit on the back seat with your feet in the trunk, grab the deck through the holes left by the child-restraint trim and then pull it up and towards you. Just keep working it and eventually it will pop out and pretty much land in your lap. Before you go all the way to laying it on the back seat, find the wire for the electric roller blind and unhook it from the right-most hold-down clip it so it doesn’t get stretched or damaged.
If you’re just doing suspension or sound system work then you don’t actually want to take the deck completely out. Roll it forward and lay it upside-down on the back seat. It will be held in place by the seatbelts that still go through it, and you can do all your suspension work with it in this position. The last step before the suspension work begins is to unscrew the two speakers at the left and right sides of the rear shelf. They are held in place with two tapping screws at the front, and they just lift up and pull forward. Unplug and remove them. The top of the rear shock is under the foam blanket in a hollow just behind the rear seatback and just inboard of the outer seat-belt reel. Fold the outside forward corner of the foam blanket back and look underneath – you’ve arrived! (BMW M5 Tuning)Reinstallation is literally the reverse of removal.
ACS 8 pot calipers
They are actually just rebadged Brembos-albeit they look great. You also have to be careful with the 8 piston setup on the M5 as many times its master cylinder doesn't provide the push needed for a firm pedal feel. Many times the bmw m5 tuning is best off with a 6 or 4 pot caliper setup. I am sure Dave Z can provide more answers on that.I agree w/ TCM about piston's. If you choose to upgrade your brakes I would state IMO go w/ Brembo's. They worked it out where it is a perfect application. You do not need to worry about master cylinder size. All has been worked out. I called Brembo and spoke w/ them before I did my upgrade. The piston sizes in the calipers are exact design for our cars.
I went monster w/ the front 16" rotors and rears 15". Running the front & rear 6 and 4 piston calipers. I love them and they look stout.
I had HRE make me a pair of rear C20's in 18x11" that will clear the rear rotor. This way can run a drag radial for the strip.
I've seen the set up by RDSport which looks very good but they do not offer a 16" (405mm) rotor.
BMW M5 2008 VS BMW M6 2008 here is how it is!
Came up with observations between my 2008 M6 and my 2008 M5. I only have a few hundred miles on the M5, but the differences are great. The cars have the same chassis, same engine, same tranny, but feel so different.
Build quality: Goes to the M5. My M6 had some torn leather, a discolored i-Drive, condensation in the headlight. I also had a few creeks when I would go up and down my driveway. The bmw m5 tuning is solid, no sounds. Winner: M5
Looks: Toss up. I like the coupe silhouette of the M6, but the M5 has a classic BMW sedan look that is second to none. Winner: Subjective
Sound: I think the M6's exhaust sounds deeper and throatier. The M5's is a bit more subdued. Winner: M6
The M6 feels and is lighter than the M5. The M6 is a true sport GT. Very powerful and hugs the road very well. The cabin feels more luxurious than the M5. The dash of the M6 meets leather and carbon fiber, while portions of the M5’s dash meet plastic and plastic looking and feeling wood. Winner: M6
Wheels and tires. I am upset that the M5 comes with Conti's and not the Michelin Pilot Sport tires that the M6 has. Also while the M5 wheels are nice, the M6 forged wheels are the best looking stock wheel I have ever seen, second to Ferrari. Winner: M6
Creature comfort goes to the M5. Vented seats, seating position and the active seats are amazing. If you cant find a comfortable seating position in the M5 than you don’t deserve to be sitting. Winner: M5
Door sills: They light up on the M6 and make it feel special. The M5's are nice, but don’t light up. Winner: M6.
HUD: The HUD in the M5 is so much better than in the M6. I now see why you guys voted to order it. To be honest the one in the M6 was awful and I regretted getting it. The one in the M5 is perfect, the color is better the location is spot on and it’s wonderful. Winner: M5
MPG: I swear the M5 gets better miles per gallon. I drove the same distance I normally drive in the M6 and the M5 had more gas in the tank. Winner: M5
Build quality: Goes to the M5. My M6 had some torn leather, a discolored i-Drive, condensation in the headlight. I also had a few creeks when I would go up and down my driveway. The bmw m5 tuning is solid, no sounds. Winner: M5
Looks: Toss up. I like the coupe silhouette of the M6, but the M5 has a classic BMW sedan look that is second to none. Winner: SubjectiveSound: I think the M6's exhaust sounds deeper and throatier. The M5's is a bit more subdued. Winner: M6
The M6 feels and is lighter than the M5. The M6 is a true sport GT. Very powerful and hugs the road very well. The cabin feels more luxurious than the M5. The dash of the M6 meets leather and carbon fiber, while portions of the M5’s dash meet plastic and plastic looking and feeling wood. Winner: M6
Wheels and tires. I am upset that the M5 comes with Conti's and not the Michelin Pilot Sport tires that the M6 has. Also while the M5 wheels are nice, the M6 forged wheels are the best looking stock wheel I have ever seen, second to Ferrari. Winner: M6Creature comfort goes to the M5. Vented seats, seating position and the active seats are amazing. If you cant find a comfortable seating position in the M5 than you don’t deserve to be sitting. Winner: M5
Door sills: They light up on the M6 and make it feel special. The M5's are nice, but don’t light up. Winner: M6.
HUD: The HUD in the M5 is so much better than in the M6. I now see why you guys voted to order it. To be honest the one in the M6 was awful and I regretted getting it. The one in the M5 is perfect, the color is better the location is spot on and it’s wonderful. Winner: M5
MPG: I swear the M5 gets better miles per gallon. I drove the same distance I normally drive in the M6 and the M5 had more gas in the tank. Winner: M5
Are you doing 1/4 mile on your tuned BMW M5?
I am here for ya bud.....
- 1/8 gas (refill 4-6 liters at a time)
- No neutered launch control - useless bmw m5 tuning
- P500S / S6, EDC: Comfort
- Hit the gas when the last yellow light is lit (you need to play around here)
- The important thing: Step on gas 1/3 - 2/3 down when you are ready to go....you need to feel the car hook up. You will need to modulate how deep you press the gas and the rate you nail the gas pedal
- Don't use the hud, it is too slow
- Must avoid hitting the rev limiter
- Shift when the needle hits 8000 rpm, by the time it actually shifts, you are at redline
- Burn outs will help with 60 foot times but I don't think it is necessary
- If your goal is a low E/T, use 22 psi and burn out
- If you goal is a high trap speed, use 40 psi
- I would just go with stock.....
Look at your timeslips between runs to govern your behaviour. If you are under 2.1 seconds for 60 foot times, you are doing well.....anything under 2 seconds is great....the rest is a video game.
One more thingThe biggest impact on your 1/4 mile ET is what happens in the first 60 feet. While a 20 inch lighter wheel/tire combination will carry more speed from a rolling start or even in the last 1/8th of the track, a 20 inch wheel will be an impediment in the first 60'. Whatever you gain at the top end of the track will not be enough to make up for a bad launch. You MAY have higher traps, but your ET's will likely be no better than if you ran on your 19s, and probably worse.
The reason is the sidewall. If you are going to run at the strip, you should NOT have a stiff and paper thin sidewall. The larger the rim, the thinner the sidewall on the tire. So assuming that the condition of the tires on the 19s and 20s are comparable, the 19 inch tire will have a thicker sidewall. It allows more flex at the line and allows the tire's contact patch to work better, giving you a better launch and 60' time. If you have ever seen a wrinkle slick in action on a 9 second car, you'll understand.
People who really want to devote time and money to the track buy a dedicated set of light rear wheels and drag tires. They buy the smallest rim that will fit (clear the rear brakes), which gives them a tire with a larger sidewall. The combination of sidewall and a special sticky tread compound beats the pants off of most street tires. You really need to commit to the 1/4 mile to invest in this because it is a PITA to change wheels for the strip. (Some guys change wheels at home and drive to the strip, but God help you if you get caught in the rain on the way home riding on drag radials.)
315/25/20 Toyo T1R Tires Installed BMW M5 Tuning
I got a chance to throw on my HRE 20" with the 315's in the rear. Suspension is stock for now.
I had two people in the front and full tank of gas absolutely zero rubbing. 315's are just crazy. But driving around with a loaded car/full tank of gas is not going to cause rubbing if the roads are flat and even. Go over a few dips/bumps over 30-40 mph and you'll be sure to get some scraping.
Oh and that's 20x11 in the rear bmw m5 tuning
I had two people in the front and full tank of gas absolutely zero rubbing. 315's are just crazy. But driving around with a loaded car/full tank of gas is not going to cause rubbing if the roads are flat and even. Go over a few dips/bumps over 30-40 mph and you'll be sure to get some scraping.
Oh and that's 20x11 in the rear bmw m5 tuning
BMW M5 Tuning and My opinion on ventilated Seats
To put it simple.
I sold my tuned bmw m5 and one of the reasons was the seats. Now that I have the M5, it has vented seats and I must say overall a more complete package of luxury and performance.
In other words
Perforated/ventilated is definitely the way to go IMO.
The leather is much softer, the seats are more comfortable, and the support is great - even for occasional tracking the lateral support is very good. The ventilation is good for the hot months, and I actually use it with the heat as well. As an additional bonus, I really do use the neck support on the comfort seats, I had that on my 545, and use it quite a bit just to lean back and relax after driving a while. The non-ventilated look better, but I Love the look and feel of vented seats. The neck support is wonderful. Feels so comfy and sporty. When I get in the car with a shirt and tie, I do love having the vent seats to stop my back from getting hot and sweaty. And that is during the winter since my car has 670 miles on it.
That's how it goes for my but MY friend has a different view. Here what he says:
I sold my tuned bmw m5 and one of the reasons was the seats. Now that I have the M5, it has vented seats and I must say overall a more complete package of luxury and performance.
In other wordsPerforated/ventilated is definitely the way to go IMO.
The leather is much softer, the seats are more comfortable, and the support is great - even for occasional tracking the lateral support is very good. The ventilation is good for the hot months, and I actually use it with the heat as well. As an additional bonus, I really do use the neck support on the comfort seats, I had that on my 545, and use it quite a bit just to lean back and relax after driving a while. The non-ventilated look better, but I Love the look and feel of vented seats. The neck support is wonderful. Feels so comfy and sporty. When I get in the car with a shirt and tie, I do love having the vent seats to stop my back from getting hot and sweaty. And that is during the winter since my car has 670 miles on it.
That's how it goes for my but MY friend has a different view. Here what he says:I guess I'm the oddball since I'm not impressed with BMW's ventilated seats. I felt that the Lincoln MKZ and the Infinit M35 (both rentals) had more powerful ventilated seats where your bunghole would freeze. Once you sit in the BMW seat, it kinda blocks the holes and the air is forced out the holes that provide the least resistance, aka the ones above your shoulder and between the legs in the front. I would prefer not to have them since the leather feels softer but too delicate for everyday wear and tear. If you end up buying, go no vent, if you lease go ventilated IMO.
Thursday, March 6, 2008
Cool Pictures of M5 20" inch wheels!
Here are some cool pictures of :
1. 20" wheels without lowering on their tuned bmw m5
2. 20" wheels with H & R springs to lower their ride
3. 20" wheels with Dinan stage 2
had 22 ACS on my 7...When my wife would drive i was always inspecting the wheels afterwards
Noticed the heavy wheels do take a lil away from performance ( they are off right now and should finally weigh them!) ride quality is a little rougher than stock, i just adjusted my EDC to a slightly softer setting and the ride is still good whereas i just to set the EDC to full sport before.
I originally wanted the Dinan stage2 suspension kit, but after long thought, I didn't think I needed such a great setup for street driving. 
Plus, the drop wasn't low enough in my opinion. It was a choice of either the KW Variant3 coilovers or cheap H&R springs.
Atleast with coilovers, I could dump the car to the floor! If you're afraid of rubbing with a car full of people, all you have to do is change your DSC settings to Sport, then you'll be just fine. Honestly, I haven't had any rubbing issues yet. What DPE wheel series did you get? Finish? I'm excited for you!
LOL!
The car looks awesome! I like the contrast of the blacked out grills, front and side, then chrome lips...really draws the attention to the wheels.
1. 20" wheels without lowering on their tuned bmw m52. 20" wheels with H & R springs to lower their ride
3. 20" wheels with Dinan stage 2
had 22 ACS on my 7...When my wife would drive i was always inspecting the wheels afterwardsNoticed the heavy wheels do take a lil away from performance ( they are off right now and should finally weigh them!) ride quality is a little rougher than stock, i just adjusted my EDC to a slightly softer setting and the ride is still good whereas i just to set the EDC to full sport before.
I originally wanted the Dinan stage2 suspension kit, but after long thought, I didn't think I needed such a great setup for street driving. Plus, the drop wasn't low enough in my opinion. It was a choice of either the KW Variant3 coilovers or cheap H&R springs.
Atleast with coilovers, I could dump the car to the floor! If you're afraid of rubbing with a car full of people, all you have to do is change your DSC settings to Sport, then you'll be just fine. Honestly, I haven't had any rubbing issues yet. What DPE wheel series did you get? Finish? I'm excited for you!
LOL!
The car looks awesome! I like the contrast of the blacked out grills, front and side, then chrome lips...really draws the attention to the wheels.
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